Six independently controlled outlets, how to wire them to your gear, and the rules that make a tank run itself.

A smart outlet is a power socket you can switch on or off from an app, on a schedule, or in response to a sensor reading. It replaces a wall timer plus a stack of Wi-Fi plugs with a single, integrated controller.

Six independently controlled outlets, all driven by the same controller and accessible from the app, the on-device display, and your automations.

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Heaters, return pumps, powerheads, wavemakers, lights, chillers, fans, ATO pumps, UV sterilizers, CO₂ solenoids, dosers, skimmers — anything you’d normally plug into a wall outlet within the per-outlet load rating.

Yes. Every outlet has its own on/off control, friendly name, schedule, and rule — they’re fully independent.

Yes — that’s the core idea. Any outlet can be tied to temperature, pH, TDS, salinity, or leak detection so the device responds to real conditions instead of just a clock.

Plug the heater into a smart outlet and add a rule like ‘cut power if temperature is above 80°F.’ It’s the simplest, most effective protection against the most common tank-killer (a stuck-on heater).

• → Read: Prevent heater failure on a reef tank
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Tie the ATO outlet to your salinity reading: turn on when salinity is above target, turn off the moment it returns to target. This protects against the classic ATO failure mode of running unchecked.

• → Automating a marine tank — full guide
• → For saltwater fish-only tanks

Yes. Each outlet supports time-based schedules. For dimmable lights, you’ll typically use the light’s own ramping and just use the outlet to cut power overnight.

Yes. Tie the chiller outlet to temperature with hysteresis (e.g. on above 80°F, off at 78°F) so it doesn’t short-cycle.

Yes. Set a feed mode that turns specified outlets off for a chosen duration, then turns them back on automatically. Triggered manually from the app or the on-device display.

Yes — many users prefer their wavemaker’s own controller for fine-grained pattern control, but cycling on/off with an outlet works for simpler setups.

Yes. All schedules and parameter-driven rules run locally on the controller. Wi-Fi only matters for app access from outside your home and push notifications.

Each outlet is rated for typical aquarium gear (heaters, lights, pumps, fans). Bigger combined loads should be split across the six outlets to keep each well within spec.

Yes — the device includes built-in surge protection so a power-grid spike doesn’t take out your equipment.

Yes. The app and on-device display always let you flip an outlet on or off, with options for ‘until next schedule event’ or ‘until I switch back to auto.’

Yes. The app shows live status, current rule (auto, schedule, manual), and recent activity for every outlet.

Yes. ‘Return Pump,’ ‘Heater,’ ‘Reef Light,’ ‘ATO Pump,’ etc. — names show up everywhere from the device display to your phone.

Yes. A rule can combine conditions like ‘temperature above 80°F AND lights are on’ for finer control. Most users start simple and grow more sophisticated over time.

Yes — perhaps the most important rule of all. ‘On leak detected, cut return pump and ATO pump immediately.’ It buys you minutes that prevent floor damage.

Yes. Set a schedule for the hours you want it running, or tie it to the lighting schedule.

Yes — when power returns, outlets restore their last automated state and resume schedules immediately.

Yes. Six outlets are designed to be in use simultaneously, within typical aquarium loads.